I have a favorite hiking dress made by Eddie Bauer, which I have outlined my quest to re-create here (using the Colette Wren) and here (using the Patterns for Pirates Sunshine Dress)
I loved the Sunshine Dress but wanted to have the bodice lined, so I experimented a bit and came up with the method below. My first two dresses I made using this pattern are really low cut – due to some bad adjustments I made, but I am happy to layer them I know I’ll wear them all the time.
Adding the lining takes a while longer, especially the first time, but I am really happy with the finished result!
Step 1. Buy the pattern here
Tip – if you are using a slippery swim knit or lining you might try wash away wonder tape by Dritz to hold your layers together. It has made a big difference in the quality of my seams!
Ok, let’s get started!
Adjust the pattern as needed to fit your body – I would recommend a muslin – because you don’t have the extra coverage of the neckbands that are used in the original pattern, the lined version is a little lower cut – so you may want to adjust your pattern for that (I added a full inch to the center area over the bust where the two sides crossover). Or just plan to wear a layer under for modesty – or just not worry about modesty!
Cut out two of each of the bodice pieces – I used the Back-Crossover and the Front Cross-over – I used the front crossover piece without gathering though you could certainly try and do this with a gathered layer.
Be sure to reverse direction when cutting out the four cross-over pieces. I used swim suit lining for lining the bodice of some of my dresses, and some worn out t-shirt for the lining in the example I’m showing below (waste not want not!).
Pin and serge around the neck and arm holes. Leave sides and bottom unserged.
Turn it all right side out through the shoulder area – this is a littler tricky as you are pulling quite a lot through the narrow shoulder area but I promise it can be done. Pull the whole garment through the first shoulder opening and then turn the second half right side out through the other. Ta-daa right side out!
At this point a civilized person would probably iron but it is really hot in my sewing room right now.
hard fun part!
Fold the inner front crossover down to the lining of the back piece – in my dress, the back lining is dark solid purple – the rest of the pieces are striped.
I baste this with my sewing machine to ensure it stays together during all the flipping that’s about to happen! Below you can see I have unfolded the back outer layer from the lining to ensure that the inner crossover is only pinned to the back lining.
Unfold the top crossover piece you just brought down, line up the seams, and pin together the lining layers and outer layers, right sides together. So, in this picture, on the left side, the crossover/ lining piece we just basted is pinned to the front crossover lining. On the right side, the back outer layer is pinned to the outer front crossover.
I like to use the wonder tape here so that the layers are easier to handle.
Serge/sew along this edge.
When you turn it right side out, it should look like the left side, with the inner crossover layer in place, with all seams nicely enclosed.
Now fold over the top crossover layer, and pin the short part of the crossover onto the top layer only of the inner crossover piece. Baste into place.
Baste the short side of the outer crossover layer into place ( I am using the ruler to show that the crossover is only pinned to the one layer of the inner crossover.)
Then unfold your front and back pieces and pin together the lining layers and the outer layers right sides together. Serge.
Because there are so many layers, I basted the bodice layers together before attaching the skirt to the bodice.