P4P Sunshine Dress Lined Bodice Tutorial

I have a favorite hiking dress made by Eddie Bauer, which I have outlined my quest to re-create here (using the Colette Wren) and here (using the Patterns for Pirates Sunshine Dress)

I loved the Sunshine Dress but wanted to have the bodice lined, so I experimented a bit and came up with the method below. My first two dresses I made using this pattern are really low cut – due to some bad adjustments I made, but I am happy to layer them I know I’ll wear them all the time.

Adding the lining takes a while longer, especially the first time, but I am really happy with the finished result!

Step 1. Buy the pattern here

Tip – if you are using a slippery swim knit or lining you might try wash away wonder tape by Dritz to hold your layers together. It has made a big difference in the quality of my seams!

Ok, let’s get started!

Adjust the pattern as needed to fit your body – I would recommend a muslin – because you don’t have the extra coverage of the neckbands that are used in the original pattern, the lined version is a little lower cut – so you may want to adjust your pattern for that (I added a full inch to the center area over the bust where the two sides crossover). Or just plan to wear a layer under for modesty – or just not worry about modesty!

Cut out two of each of the bodice pieces – I used the Back-Crossover and the Front Cross-over – I used the front crossover piece without gathering though you could certainly try and do this with a gathered layer.

Be sure to reverse direction when cutting out the four cross-over pieces. I used swim suit lining for lining the bodice of some of my dresses, and some worn out t-shirt for the lining in the example I’m showing below (waste not want not!).

Pin and sew (or serge) the shoulders of the lining and the outer layer right sides together.
Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial

Shown here right side out, with the shoulder seams sewn:
Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial
Now stack your outer layer and lining with right sides together.

Pin and serge around the neck and arm holes. Leave sides and bottom unserged.

Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial

Turn it all right side out through the shoulder area – this is a littler tricky as you are pulling quite a lot through the narrow shoulder area but I promise it can be done. Pull the whole garment through the first shoulder opening and then turn the second half right side out through the other. Ta-daa right side out!

At this point a civilized person would probably iron but it is really hot in my sewing room right now.

Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial

Now the hard fun part!
Fold the inner front crossover down to the lining  of the back piece – in my dress, the back lining is dark solid purple – the rest of the pieces are striped.

Baste the short side ONLY of the inner front crossover into place onto the back lining ONLY. In the photo below, you will see the top crossover later is folded up and out of the way. Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial

I baste this with my sewing machine to ensure it stays together during all the flipping that’s about to happen! Below you can see I have unfolded the back outer layer from the lining to ensure that the inner crossover is only pinned to the back lining.

Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial
Now bring down the top crossover piece to lay on top of the lining/crossover piece you just basted.

Unfold the top crossover piece you just brought down, line up the seams, and pin together the lining layers and outer layers, right sides together. So, in this picture, on the left side, the  crossover/ lining piece we just basted is pinned to the front crossover lining. On the right side, the back outer layer is pinned to the outer front crossover.

Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial

I like to use the wonder tape here so that the layers are easier to handle.

Serge/sew along this edge.

When you turn it right side out, it should look like the left side, with the inner crossover layer in place, with all seams nicely enclosed.
Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial
Now fold over the top crossover layer, and pin the short part of the crossover onto the top layer only of the inner crossover piece. Baste into place.
Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial
Baste the short side of the outer crossover layer into place ( I am using the ruler to show that the crossover is only pinned to the one layer of the inner crossover.)
Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial
Then unfold your front and back pieces and pin together the lining layers and the outer layers right sides together. Serge.
Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial

When you turn it right side out you should have a finished top with all the serged seams inside.
Making a Lined P4P Sunshine Dress Bodice Tutorial
Use the pattern directions to attach the bodice to the skirt.

Because there are so many layers, I  basted the bodice layers together before attaching the skirt to the bodice.

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